A perfect night walk in Hoi An Vietnam

Helen Avaient
Jun 9
4 min read

Visiting Hoi An at night is a must for any visitor to Vietnam. From 6pm the ancient town stops vehicle traffic along its streets. This makes wandering around so much easier. All you have to dodge are the pushbikes and other pedestrians.

The entire ancient city is a treat for the eyes. The architecture has been influenced by Chinese, Japanese and French styles. All sit comfortably side by side. The brick walled buildings are often covered in moss, which just adds to the old-world vibe. Bougainvillea growing up the sides of buildings adds a delightful touch of colour.

A two storey French Colonial cream brick building has its lights on and gives a dreamy, almost abandoned look. Green plantation shutters on the doors are open and you can get a glimpse of the inside. The plants growing in the eaves and the moss on the walls make it look abandoned, yet it has two people sitting at tables on the downstairs outdoor covered porch.

A narrow two storey restaurant at night. The second story is full of glowing coloured lanterns. The bottom storey has a central door with open shutters and a window each side. You can look in and see the tables set to serve customers. A few tables on the sidewalk are empty. A chalkboard on either side of the front door has menu items written on it.

There is a tranquil feeling of peace and slowing down here. Stroll from one small shopfront to another as the sellers greet you and encourage you to enter and contribute to the local economy. Almost every shop and stall sell their wares on a cash only basis. This is the perfect place to shop for leather shoes, bags, or clothing, lamps, or household goods. It is a shoppers’ paradise. You are expected to barter when making a purchase. When offered an initial price, offer between 20-30 percent lower of that price, then bargain your way up. You can expect to pay around 50 percent of the original asking price.

Hoi An could be called Lantern City, there are that many around. Made of silk fabric over wood frames, they are strung across streets between buildings and hung in most available tree. Restaurants and shops also had a multitude of lanterns on display. Shops selling these beautiful works of art are in every street.

Paper lanterns in the colours of the rainbow hang in front of a small shop front. Solid coloured lamps of blues, greens, purples and reds blend in with patterned lamps of flowers, nature and geometric designs. all are lit from within and glow brightly at night.

The lamps give a feeling of nostalgia, almost like an 18th century Vietnam. Along the river you will be greeted by locals wanting to sell you candles in floating flower holders. The object is to place the holder in the water of the Thu Bon River (they will lower it in for you) and make a wish as your lit candle floats along the water Releasing a light is also said to get rid of your stress. It is pretty to see the lights sail off. Between fifty cents to a dollar, it is a cheap investment for a wish. If you don’t want to buy one, keep saying no, with a smile on your face and a wave of your hand. KEEP WALKING away. The seller will eventually stop asking you and move onto the next potential customer.

On hot evenings (and this is EVERY evening in Hoi An), the breeze coming off the river is very welcoming. It was magical to stand on the bridge over the river and watch the lights twinkling along on the water. The passenger carrying boats have glowing lanterns hanging from them as they sailed along. I love a good reflection photo, and the reflected lights double the glow.

At night on the river the small boats are propelled along by a standing Vietnamese local who pushes them like a gondola. People sit in and enjoy the ride, lit by a lantern. Along the side of the river are restaurants and shops all lit up at night. People stroll along shopping, just their silhouttes seen against the brighter lights.

My favourite sit-down restaurant was Morning Glory. The food was so delectable. I ordered the Cao lầu. This is a specialty of Hoi An. Meat and greens rest on a bed of thick Japanese style rice noodles.

A bowl of dinner, pork and beef strips, lettuce and coriander and half a small round tomato, a flat piece of sesame seeded bread all sit on flat noodles. A tiger beer and other drinks wait behind the food.

I also tried the crispy fried wontons with luxurious sauteed crabmeat, spring onions and tomato sauce. I could not choose which was my favourite. Of course, it needed that Tiger beer (or two) to compliment the meal!

On a square white dish sits four square crispy wontons, overlapping each other across the plate. a mix of crabmeet, tomatoes and onions is spread over the wontons. a small sprig of coriander and shredded red bell pepper in the top left hand corner ands a touch of colorful garnish

The delicious smells of street food cooking compete with the delectable aromas enticing you into restaurants. The restaurants are rarely air conditioned and their open doors and windows means that you can enjoy the smells even before you venture inside. The street food is also enticing.

A Vietnamese women sits in front of an open shop selling soveniers, she is sitting in front of a table selling grilled rice paper, donut, shrimp and baby cake, donuts. The food is on plates and sticks for passing visitors to purchase. A large yellow sign details her offerings.

For dessert, the street choices are many and include stick ice-cream, sweet banana and Nutella pancakes or the mango cakes.

A sign stating icecream for sale. Kem Ong icecream, in various flavours. A thin cylindrical icecream on a stick is brown in appearance and shows the frozen delacies that is so popular.

There are many different drinks to quench your thirst on any of the warm evenings in Hoi An. The local beer found on Bach Dang Street is cheap and satisfying. Not many tourists find this local haunt. Even in restaurants, the beer is reasonably priced. Wines and spirits are freely available. Fruit juices are also a popular choice of people wandering the streets and can be bought from sellers there. Live music plays from various venues and folk dancing can be seen around the ancient town. This is truly a town where you can relax and people watch.

A narrow coffee shop with wooden walls, wooden shelves displaying various nick nacks. Indoors are six wooden chairs, two each at small round wooden tables. Outdoors are a wooden round table and 3 wooden chairs. there is a homely feeling in this small shop.

It is also a town where you can people watch as you walk the streets. The sidewalks are just another opportunity where you can eat, shop and sell.

A crowded scene on the sidewalk. A couple are eating food as they sit on the pavement. Two other young men squat on red stools to eat or use their phone. A Vietnamese woman sells food from her table as others squat on similar red stools to enjoy their street food.

There is a contrast between people who dress up to come visit and those who prefer casual. As I wandered, I was amazed at the amount of people taking photos for social media. Upon reflection, I should not have been surprised. Hoi An at night is the perfect background for any picture.

In front of a two storey restaurant, lit up at night with colourful lamps are four Asian women wearing colourful traditional outfits of Vietnam, trying to organise themselves for a photo

You never know just who will be visiting Hoi An. These happy monks are out enjoying the evening too.

Six buddist monks dressed in plain off white robes enjoy a stroll along the river at night in Hoi An Vietnam.

The old town is a busy place at night. Its narrow streets filled with open restaurants, bars, shops, massage and spa stores. The goods for offer spill out onto the sidewalks. The crowded roads can be a good thing, as it makes you slow down and look at the local life, the goods for sale, and smell the delicious aroma of freshly cooked food. Hoi An is a place where you can buy amazing items you never even knew you wanted or needed. I bought a pair of leather boots that were measured for my feet. They were handmade and delivered to me within 24 hours. They would have to be the most comfortable shoes I have ever worn. They cost $65USD and my only regret is that I didn't get a second pair. The good news is that I will definitely get a second (or third) pair on my next trip to Hoi An. There will assuredly be a return visit to this paradise.

Author Helen in a selfie moment with the river behind her at night in Hoi An. The lights of the market stalls on the other bank of the river aglow. As are the lanterns on the small boats sailing the waters.

For some people, it can be a sensory overload in a busy environment like this. Yet, I liked the mix of busy and slow. There is a fantastic vibe as you wander the narrow lanes without a destination in mind. The vibe of Hoi An enters your soul and joyfully imprint itself upon your memories. Just remember, almost every stall and shop will take cash only. They will barter and bargain with you. Try offering 20% of what they are asking, and you will most likely both agree on 50% of the original asking price. Bartering is expected and all part of an amazing adventure.